"Forty years ago, if you ordered tacos in a Dallas restaurant, what arrived at the table were three crispy corn shells filled with seasoned ground beef, shredded iceberg lettuce, chopped tomatoes and ribbons of an orange-yellow cheese that was more often Velveeta than cheddar. Pinto beans ""refried"" in lard and a scoop of Mexican-spiced rice usually showed up for the ride. El Rincon wasn't around 40 years ago, but they seem to have captured the era's simple Tex-Mex spirit."
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