Keith McNally's famous Soho brasserie plummets from our top twenty this year and loses a star, because the menu has barely changed in a decade, casual French cooking is as exhausted as any cuisine in town, and the talented bistro chefs Riad Nasr and Lee Hanson now spend most of their time at McNally's other downtown hot spot, Minetta Tavern. Even so, the dining room is as luminous as ever, and if you're in the mood for a nostalgic bite of steak tartare or a restorative morning cup of café au lait, this is still the place to go.
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